The golden rule for the PT, as for the sniper, is the following: we owe nothing to anyone, except to give the whole team as a whole a worthy result - victory.
Read more about the anti-tank rules below.

The most important:

1. Always mislead the enemy. You fired a shot, realized that you were exposed, fire another one, and get out of position as quickly as possible.

2. Be creative. Choose unusual positions, try to find them with friends in training, in battle you won’t have time for this. Read relevant topics on the forums, follow map updates.

3. In battle, give preference to those positions from which you will shoot the enemy not in the forehead, but on the side . To do this, you need to imagine what routes the fireflies take, where the heavies hang out, where the artillery is hiding, and where the enemy snipers can be located.
When there is a well-armored heavy vehicle in front of you, calmly wait until it exposes its side or stern, do not rush to shoot. If you are confident in your camouflage, you can even let him pass by you and work in his stern.

4. Be unexpected. Don’t wait for the left flank to be broken if you know that the enemy’s right is poorly protected. Go to the enemy's rear in a relatively clear place (there are usually a lot of corpses there, both friendly and foreign), and shoot the enemy in the rear from a new position. If you don't meet anyone on the road, kill the artillery, or take the base.

5. Change positions while moving stealthily. Strike from directions unexpected for the enemy. Don't let them wait for you. You are the hunter, and you must wait. But keep in mind that you are not waiting for the enemy, but for the moment to shoot at him.

6. Be patient. A sniper cannot do without such a quality as patience. Just like you can’t do without it when playing on a PT. Be not just patient, but cold as ice. Learn not to shoot if there is even the slightest threat of exposure.
Don’t shoot when there’s a one-shot fat guy standing right 50 meters in front of you, when you see that the enemy is trying to take you into the spotlight, when you are the only or first target in the range of enemy vehicles.
Shooting in such cases is only permissible in one case - when a firefly comes directly to your position, and you have no choice but to sell your carcass at a higher price and hope to end up with at least one locked module.
Impatience has ruined even the most experienced PT watermen more than once.

7. Be selfless. The same applies to greed and greed
Work not for a frag, but for a win. Of course, you can’t throw away the underdogs either, but if you have the opportunity, move on, don’t regret giving the frag to your teammate, highlight it, and let him finish it off. Moreover, if they killed because of your light, you will get credit for it.

Tips for working on tank destroyers

1. One of the first actions after the start is to break down a tent and a box at your own spawn, remove possible obstacles to detect the reckless driver who has come to take our base. At the Aerodrome, for example, sometimes it is useful not to move away from the spawn at all in the first minutes of the battle and destroy the houses at the base.

2. The beginning of the battle: do not rush to climb somewhere. We take a position not far from the spawn and work in someone else’s world.

3. Have a sense of the light range of your car (comes with experience or with a light bulb).
Experience is more valuable; the light bulb works with a delay. With experience comes understanding when you see a certain tank, and you know when and how many meters later it can see you. This refers to that very “real sixth sense” when you understand that it’s time, instead of firing at the enemy with impunity, to fall or roll back until the moment the bush in front of you becomes opaque.

4. Monitor the mini-map at all times
While you're shooting into your sniper scope with the fuse, everything can change dramatically without you even noticing. A minimap for an anti-tank driver is like the rear-view mirrors of a car. By glancing at it at least once every 5 seconds and assessing changes in the situation as a whole, you have the opportunity to understand what is happening outside your line of sight.
React to the situation, change your position so that you are again further away from the enemy and not exposed, so keep your distance
The further you are from the enemy, the better for you and the worse for him. You need to try to destroy the enemy before he sees you.

5. Don’t skimp on consumables!
Use gasoline - an extra couple of km/h can be critical and decide the battle. With gasoline, the turning speed of the vehicle and turret also increases.
Paint your car - a couple of extra meters of “non-detection” can sometimes also decide the battle.
Always carry at least a minimum supply of gold. Rarely does a battle go without it.

6. If there is no bush, make one from a tree growing nearby
Trees are the same bushes that now simply grow vertically. Experienced PT-waters make entire nests from fallen trees in convenient positions, in the middle of which they can easily move without being noticed.

7. Explore the area!
Use the folds of the terrain, know all the spots and spots, know the places where the artillery is placed, the routes for the fireflies to pass, the places where heavy loads clash. Don’t be lazy to change your position and find a more convenient one to shoot at the target

8. When shooting the enemy, look where his gun is turned
If it’s in your direction (or suddenly began to turn that way after your shot), then this is a very good reason for ALREADY, without hesitation, to run away. The light bulb works late.

9. Do everything to stay alive until the end of the fight
You need to understand that no one needs you dead. Dead you are often a lost fight. A fight that you could “pull out” if you stayed alive. You can shoot at the enemy while you are alive and have shells.

10. Study the enemy’s performance characteristics
It is not enough to simply hide, aim at the tank and press fire. You need to know exactly where to go, what will happen to the tank when you hit it (it can spin out if it hits the track, it can catch fire and completely burn out from one of your shots...), you need to know how often the opponents shoot, from what distance they will definitely notice you, from what distance they will definitely hit you (not everyone has such accurate guns as the PT).
In general, you need to know in detail the strengths and weaknesses of your opponents, and for this it is not at all harmful to ride a hundred or two battles on the equipment that you will fight against in the PT.

What you should definitely not do at PT:

1. Fight against 2 or more opponents at once (get distracted and burn under artillery)
2. Exposing yourself to a shot, catching a shot on the armor (no armor)
3. Attack the TT head-on and fight it in a clinch (no armor! NO mass!)
4. Drive ahead of everyone like a stupid firefly (you will merge first, but who needs that?)
5. Play swing around the corner (towers - NO! armor - NO!)
6. Fight alone with the enemy's ST of your level or higher (again, they will crush you, shoot you)

Violation of these rules is punishable by a hangar.

More tips from experienced fighters:
zaporozhes:
1. Master the proposed tactics in practice. Soon you will learn not only to choose the right targets and moments for shots, but also to react correctly and in a timely manner to changes in the combat situation, and to sense the distance. This will give you self-confidence and you will begin to deal even more damage and hit more enemies.
2. You have already become a little more skilled at getting frags. Now you need to learn more effective actions. Don't wait for a one-shot enemy behind your ally's back. Try not to miss opportunities to deal damage. Ability to independently take advantageous positions, maintain the required distance, change location in a timely manner, etc. will give you more frags, total damage and medals, and your team victories. Well, instead of accusations, you will more often receive gratitude.
Don't forget to monitor not only the mini-map, but also the chat. Do not refuse an ally's request to support him or cover a weak area, if this is reasonable. But always remember that there are a lot of completely inexperienced players whose lead you cannot follow. When making a decision, evaluate the situation, the performance characteristics of your car and your own strengths. It's better to be safe than sorry. A living anti-tank weapon in direct hands is a formidable force capable of turning the tide of a battle and dragging out a battle.”
I would also add advice to stay close to obstacles that you can press against when trying to spin the PT.
(31 Jan 2013 - 18:44)

Kottenok:
the allied deer cannot stand that someone kicks better than him, or that someone kicks on a low point that is “not for the faint of heart”
I hear (read) this all the time, both from allies and from opponents (which is typical, accusations of cousteau/fragodrotism on Westerners are often heard from the same Westerners), if not through a battle, then after two, then for sure, and this is sometimes very unpleasant

Players who choose an anti-tank self-propelled gun are rarely unhappy in the sandbox. Among tanks of the first, second and even third levels, the starting "petashki" stand out favorably with firepower and the ability to penetrate any armor. Yes, you have to pay with slowness and the lack of a tower, but this is taken for granted.

But at the next level everything changes. The player begins to be thrown towards the “big guys” driving around in “thirty-fours” or KVs, which are virtually invulnerable to fire from third-level tank destroyers. In addition, serious artillery appears, for which the sedentary “petashka” is an ideal target. At this point, many novice players become disillusioned with anti-tank guns.

However, it is not at all useless, but simply requires special thinking and tactics that allow you to fully realize all its advantages and neutralize the disadvantages. So how can you turn a tank destroyer into a truly dangerous vehicle?

Pros and cons of tank destroyers

A very accurate straight shot is one of the main advantages of the class.

Let's start with the fact that tank destroyers are inferior to tanks in a direct collision. Of course, in a “fair” fight, a “petashka” can cope with a tank of its level from a standing position (a lot depends on the specific vehicles here). But, alas, tank owners also know this and therefore are in no hurry to engage in a fair firefight, preferring cunning. For example, taking advantage of your mobility, go to the flank or rear and calmly fire at the car, cutting circles around it.

The tank destroyer does not have a turret and cannot fire and maneuver at the same time. To catch the enemy in sight, the “petashka” needs to turn around with its entire body. However, the enemy also does not stand still, moving along the line of rotation of the vehicle in order to be out of reach of its gun. And at the same time it conducts continuous shelling of the sides and stern. I don’t even want to talk about what will happen if we manage to shoot down a caterpillar from a tank destroyer. Thus, you can lose your “pet” even when meeting with a relatively weak tank, without firing a single serious shot at it.

Therefore, our task is to fight from afar, keeping enemy vehicles away and supporting our tanks with fire. Moreover, one of the main advantages of the class is a very accurate direct shot. But even here, not everything is so simple, because the sedentary and painfully stinging “pet” becomes very vulnerable if it is discovered.

Only the most serious self-propelled guns have armor capable of withstanding a hit from a 76-mm projectile or higher, while early tank destroyers are weakly armored, and one or two hits will be enough to kill them.

The most important conclusion follows from this: The main thing for an anti-tank installation is choosing the right position and camouflage.

The artillery loves us... nothing can be done about it

Get ready! Fire! Some people are in trouble now.

Skillful camouflage is generally a very important thing in the game, but for tank destroyers it is the main trump card of the class and the key to understanding the correct tactics for these vehicles. A properly camouflaged SU-85 will easily destroy an early heavy tank (KV or T1), but, once detected, it will not withstand even a few seconds of direct combat. The ideal situation for us is to fire at an enemy who does not see the tank destroyer attacking him and cannot respond, or to direct artillery fire at the anti-tank installation’s position.

The most impressive and enjoyable experience when playing this class is when a pair of pets, completely invisible to the enemy, stop the attack of superior enemy forces, knocking out a couple of tanks with impunity and forcing the survivors to retreat in front of an unknown and therefore even more terrible enemy.

To achieve this effect, you need to have a good understanding of how the camouflage system works in World of Tanks.

Disguise

In addition to such basic indicators as armor thickness and engine power, all vehicles have a characteristic "View radius" . It determines the distance from which the tank can detect an enemy vehicle. If the viewing radius is 400 meters, then at 401 meters the enemy tank is simply invisible to the player. The maximum possible viewing radius is 500 meters.

Everything seems simple. In addition, the game has light “firefly scouts”! Thanks to them, heavy vehicles fight at distances exceeding their viewing radius. In reality, everything is much more complicated, because there are many factors that reduce the visibility of a tank.

Thickets in front, thickets on the right - from the enemy’s side I’m almost invisible.

I see him, he sees me - no, you can’t imagine a better situation!

First of all, the dimensions of the machine itself. As you might guess, a light tank is less noticeable than a heavy one, and a tall vehicle is more noticeable than a low one. Thus, low-profile and light tank destroyers are less noticeable than tanks of similar levels, and, given their low survivability, they simply must take advantage of this.

The second factor is the relief and landscape of the area. With the terrain, everything is obvious - behind a hill blocking your line of sight, your car is not visible to the enemy, but you cannot see him either. Landscape elements are a little more difficult. The walls of houses act, in principle, in the same way - blocking both lines of sight and shots (just keep in mind that small village houses are destructible and will not serve as shelter from fire for long). But all sorts of bushes partially block visibility, making the tank hidden in them much less noticeable.

Therefore, in order to detect a hidden car, you need to drive closer. At the same time, she sees the approaching tank absolutely clearly, since up close (from fifteen meters to be precise) the bushes are considered absolutely transparent - the so-called “curtain effect” operates. Thus, a camouflaged vehicle receives serious advantages, since it can fire at an approaching target for some time with impunity.

It is important: from fifty meters, tanks can see each other in any case, even if there is an impenetrable obstacle between them.

Please note that a shot or movement unmasks it, increasing the visibility of the hidden vehicle for a few seconds. The larger the caliber of the gun, the stronger the unmasking effect. But, despite this, an inconspicuous tank destroyer, camouflaged at the very edge of the viewing radius of a heavy tank or hidden in dense thickets (the effect of reducing visibility is stronger, the more bushes there are between the vehicles), can fire from a powerful gun while remaining completely invisible.

Disguise rules

An example of incorrect disguise. The hull of the tank destroyer protrudes from the thickets, and the enemy can see it.

An example of proper camouflage. Detecting tank destroyers from this side will not be easy.

To disguise yourself, just stand behind bushes that completely hide the outline of the tank from the side where the enemy is expected to appear. To check the thoroughness of your disguise, you can hold down the right mouse button and rotate the camera so as to inspect the tank from the side where the enemy is expected to appear. A gun sticking out of a bush does not unmask the tank, but a part of the hull or turret protruding from behind a bush reduces the camouflage. You also need to always remember that an enemy scout approaching from an unmasked side will easily detect you and transmit the data to his team. If you are sure that you were discovered, albeit for a short time, change your position; the enemy can fire at the “exposed” position from memory. Also remember: particularly skilled artillerymen can calculate your position using the shell tracer (this is easier to do the larger the caliber of your gun). Therefore, changing position after a series of shots is not harmful in any case.

Tactics

All-round defense at an unnamed height.

The World of Tanks tour operator provides you with the most pleasant opportunity to hunt Tigers!

First of all, the tank destroyer is a support combat vehicle, its task is to remain in the shadows and support defense and attack with fire from a position. The choice of position is the most important part of tactics, determining the success of the “petashka” in battle. The best position combines three advantages: first, the terrain from it is covered in a straight line as far as possible and in the widest possible radius, second, there is room for good camouflage, and third, there is a heavy tank in front of it.

“Petashka” can, of course, fight something on her own, but she works best in a team, where her task is to maximize the density of fire. If a pair of equal tanks clash in front, as a rule, the one who is better supported by fire will win, so your task is not to yawn and shoot well.

To make shooting effective, study the characteristics of future targets and your gun. If you know that this tank cannot be penetrated by an armor-piercing shell from your gun either in the forehead or on the side, “turn off” the easier target first. If this is not observed, and there is no stock of premium shells for a rainy day, try firing at the armored monster with high-explosive fragmentation shells (always carry 10-15 with you). They will not be able to penetrate anything that cannot be penetrated by armor-piercing weapons, but a strong explosion on armor is an unpleasant thing. After all, it can damage some of the external systems of the tank, or even concuss one of the crew, which will greatly facilitate the “work” on the target for those who can penetrate the armor.

On a note: the effect of a high explosive charge depends on its caliber.

The enemy has broken through straight to the base, nothing good can come for us here.

A rare sight is a tank destroyer in an independent attack, and in a successful attack.

If a heavily penetrated tank is moving towards your position, you will have to open fire in any case, but if it bypasses it, take your time to shoot and assess the situation. If it turns out that it was you who “exposed” an impenetrable monster for your team, perhaps it is better not to give away your presence and work for a while as an artillery fire spotter. If an invulnerable enemy notices you, it is better not to be a hero in a obviously lost battle, but to try to hide behind a building or in the folds of the terrain. This way you can, occasionally leaning out of there, transmit to your team data on the position of the enemy super-heavy tank, which will annoy him much more than your dying mosquito bite.

Do not rely on auto-aim (for tank destroyers it is almost always rather harmful). If you are firing at an armored vehicle, give preference to weakly protected planes and direct or close angles of impact. If the tank begins to turn, hold the shot until the moment when it puts its side or stern at a favorable angle. If at this moment your gun is reloading after a shot ricocheted by the frontal plate, it will be a shame. A well-placed hit can knock down even the heaviest enemy's tracks, making them an easy target for your artillery and other teammates.

When attacking, move at a distance behind your vehicles, “running” from one good position to another. However, if the situation dictates a rush attack, just tag along with some well-armored vehicle. She will take the damage - you will support her with fire. However, if you ride a heavy tank destroyer, such as the Ferdinand, you yourself can serve as a steel wall for lighter vehicles.

I've knocked down the caterpillar - now it's time to quickly retreat behind this house!

The tank destroyer is not very good in close combat, but I’ll definitely have time to teach this one a lesson.

When choosing equipment, always choose a gun with more armor-piercing power over a gun with more damage. After all, your task is to hit heavy, not lightly protected targets (medium tanks can handle this too). At the first opportunity, buy a camouflage net - a “peteshka” in an ambush will absolutely need it. Considering that the artillery loves us, we also buy anti-fragmentation lining.

As for equipment, I recommend taking with you a standard repair kit and a first aid kit; for Soviet tank destroyers, a tightened engine speed controller is also suitable. Although this thing damages the engine, it is absolutely irreplaceable if you still have to fight a light or medium tank that has broken into close combat.

There are no revelations regarding the development of the tank destroyer crew; the very specifics of the class dictate the only answer: the “camouflage” skill is our everything.

On a note: the “camouflage” skill reduces the visibility of a tank, even if it is moving.

Anti-tank park

Although tank destroyers were an important part of American military doctrine, American vehicles of this class are not yet in the game. Let's take a brief look at sixteen Soviet and German "peteshki" that are now available for players to choose from.

AT-1 and PanzerJager 1

Soviet and German tank destroyers have a number of serious differences, but these two vehicles can be considered in pairs without fear of missing anything. Early "petashki" stand out against the background of the "sandbox" with impressive fire characteristics. The AT-1, however, looks more impressive; the guns of this vehicle easily destroy tanks of the first and second levels, so skilled tankers can score 8-9 “frgs” on this tank destroyer.

PanzerJager1, although more maneuverable, cannot boast of similar results. However, already at the next level the German tank destroyers will win back.

SU-76 and SU-85b

In fact, this is the same case, only with different “fillings”. Weak armor and survivability force the commanders of these vehicles to fight exclusively in an “ambush” manner. Otherwise, they simply don’t live long.

However, even the best guns available on the SU-76 are rather weak against the KV and PzKpfw IV. In this regard, the SU-85b compares favorably with the previous model, but to open serious guns you need a lot of experience and at first you have to ride with the same boring guns.

Marder II

It is no different from the SU-76 in terms of armor and almost no different in survivability (170 versus 150 for the Soviet vehicle), weight and engine power. It would seem that in front of us is the same weak tank destroyer, doomed to sad vegetation while waiting for the next vehicle. However, a couple of important differences turn the Marder II into a truly dangerous “petashka”, in comparison with which the SU-76 looks like a poor relative.

Firstly, an amazing viewing radius of 460 meters (the largest among all tank destroyers in the game!), and secondly, very large horizontal guidance angles (the SU-76, like all Soviet vehicles, is aimed only in a very narrow cone) and excellent late guns. Firing a KV from an SU-76 is not a hopeless matter, but it’s close to it. Marder II penetrates HF at any point.

Hetzer

The transition to the fourth level tank destroyer quickly cools the ardor of the “German” armor-piercing fighters. The Hetzer is inferior to the previous vehicle in everything except armor. It is slow moving, has a short viewing radius (300 meters), and the best of its guns is slightly inferior to the “top” gun of the Marder II. And then there are the strange pointing angles (the gun almost doesn’t turn to the right) - and we have before us one of the most unloved tank destroyers by players.

Very small dimensions and 60 mm frontal armor (giving good chances against light and early medium tanks) do not help this vehicle to rehabilitate itself. Many players prefer to install a 105mm gun on the Jaeger and shoot exclusively with high-explosive fragmentation weapons. At the very least, this method is guaranteed to damage your enemies' health.

SU-85 and SU-100

A player developing a line of Soviet tank destroyers is waiting for the opportunity to switch to the SU-85, like a New Year's child. After the flimsy SU-85b, this car looks impressive. Its armor allows it not to be afraid of light tanks, and the gun penetrates the first IS and the Tiger into the side. This comes at the cost of less mobility. Yes, and you can’t enjoy the increased characteristics - after all, she is thrown to even more serious opponents, and when the “shine” from the enemy side comes not “Stuarts” and A-20s, but “Panthers”... However, a player who has already eaten the dog when organizing ambushes, he will know what to do about it.

The SU-100 is essentially the same SU-85, only with improved armor and impressive guns. The 100-millimeter D-10s cannon, which gives the vehicle its name, has a chance to penetrate the forehead with a standard IS-4 armor-piercing projectile, and a high-explosive fragmentation projectile fired from such a cannon removes about 5% of the life of a super-heavy tank. Well, the 122-mm gun, which has the same armor-piercing power but with increased damage, demonstrates even more impressive results.

StuG III, JagdPz IV and JagdPanther

These vehicles are very similar to the SU-85 and SU-100, only better armored in the front, worse on the sides and somewhat more mobile, which makes them more convenient in the offensive.

The ability to destroy enemy tanks increases from vehicle to vehicle. Thus, the StuG III can pierce the side of a Tiger, and the “top” JagdPanther cannon threatens with a conventional armor-piercing projectile anyone tank in the game.

It is worth noting the very low profile of the StuG III and JagdPz IV, thanks to which these vehicles are easy to camouflage.

SU-152 and ISU-152

If we compare these heavy tank destroyers with super-heavy tanks, their armor is not very serious (90 millimeters of frontal armor for the ISU-152). But the “petashki” have amazing firepower. For example, with a little luck, one shot is enough to destroy a medium tank. In addition, no heavy tank would be safe near them. Armor sufficient to fight medium tanks allows them to act autonomously, but still the cover of heavy tanks greatly simplifies the game.

Ferdinand and JagdTiger

These self-propelled fortresses are the pinnacle of German tank design. 200 millimeters of frontal armor for the Ferdinand and 250 millimeters for the Jagdtiger allow them to be completely invulnerable from the front for most tanks in the game and difficult to hit even for the heaviest vehicles. For this you have to pay for the relative vulnerability of the sides (“only” 80 millimeters!) and quite high visibility for the class, as well as slightly lower damage compared to the SU and ISU-152. However, for these armored monsters, capable of participating in attacks on par with super-heavy tanks, this is not such a problem.

Object 704

Object 704 is the most powerful Soviet self-propelled gun. It has the firepower of the ISU-152, but at the same time it is more heavily armored, and the armor is distributed throughout the hull much more rationally due to the greater angle of inclination of the armor plates. All this makes this tank destroyer one of the most dangerous vehicles you can encounter in the vastness of World of Tanks.

The division into classes in World of Tanks is quite arbitrary: for example, among heavy tanks there are vehicles that cannot boast of strong armor. This fully applies to tank destroyers, among which there are completely different vehicles: huge and miniature, fast and slow, with strong armor and almost cardboard. There are even tank destroyers with turrets (the second American and British branch). There are tank destroyers that tank better than heavy tanks. There are tank destroyers that outperform medium and even light ones. The phrase “I love playing tank destroyers” doesn’t really say much: these are very diverse vehicles.

But we can still identify the most typical representatives of tank destroyers and give advice on how to play them. In the most general form, ambush and assault tank destroyers can be distinguished. Again, this division is somewhat arbitrary; there are a significant number of “intermediate” vehicles, as well as tank destroyers, which do not fully fit this classification. But the division into ambush and assault is applicable to most tank destroyers and clearly shows the specifics of the game on different vehicles.

Tactics for playing tank destroyers

The ideal ambush tank destroyer is a miniature vehicle that is very difficult to spot. Perhaps the most striking embodiment of this concept is the E 25, although it is difficult to call it a typical tank destroyer due to its low penetration and one-time damage. But small size is a distinctive feature of ambush tank destroyers. They perform excellently in open locations, where you can shoot from a long distance for most of the battle, not glow, and cause a lot of damage.

You usually have to pay for miniature or simply small sizes by booking. Ambush tank destroyers are very vulnerable to detection; they can usually be easily penetrated by single-tier tanks directly from the front. Their defense is camouflage, not strong armor.

Playing ambush tank destroyers may seem simple, but in most battles it is not. Of course, there are battles in open locations when opponents act thoughtlessly, so you can shoot almost half the team from a position somewhere near your base. You won't be able to light up at the same time. But usually the enemies quickly understand where the fire is coming from and are not exposed to the second shot.

What to do in such situations? You have to either wait patiently (often to no avail) or change your position. The small size of an ambush tank destroyer means that you can take quite risky positions on it, fire from them and not be detected. A striking example here, again, is the E 25, which, due to the double bushes, you can shoot from a distance of almost 100 meters and not glow at the same time.

Of course, the E 25 is a unique vehicle in many ways, but on other tank destroyers you shouldn’t spend the entire battle somewhere near the base, unless, of course, you have the ability to inflict damage from there. Look at the minimap, choose a direction where there is a significant concentration of enemy forces. But, of course, you shouldn’t try to hold the flank alone; you should always have a couple of allies next to you.

But a much bigger problem is the situation when, on a completely cardboard ambush tank destroyer, you are thrown onto a city map, where it is very difficult to play under disguise. In such battles it can really be very difficult: you will be seen as soon as you come out from behind cover. At the same time, you won’t be able to shoot quickly, because most tank destroyers do not have a turret. Here we can recommend the following.

Firstly, even on a completely urban map there are one or two positions where you can play from disguise. These are long areas under fire, you simply stand at the very end of such an area and wait for the enemy. It won't be the most interesting fight, but you will most likely bring benefit to the team.

Secondly, play carefully and wait for the right moment. It is quite possible that in the first half of the battle you will have to play very passively, you will probably not have the opportunity to fire a single shot. As soon as you come out from behind cover, several shells will immediately fly at you. Moreover, they will definitely penetrate you, since ambush tank destroyers have very weak armor.

But in the second half of the battle it will become easier to play: the number of opponents will be seriously reduced, leaving from behind cover will become much safer. Look for opponents who are distracted by your allies. Often you can approach them from the flank, take a shot at the side and drive away behind cover before they have time to react.

Best sau

Assault tank destroyers are fundamentally different from ambush tank destroyers; they are usually large vehicles with relatively strong armor. At the very least, their frontal armor is usually comparable to that of single-tier tanks. You have to pay for this not only in size, but also in dynamics. These are usually very slow cars that have difficulty accelerating to 30-35 km/h.

In fact, assault tank destroyers are like heavy tanks without a turret. In general, the lack of a turret is a very big drawback; you cannot drive out and quickly shoot around the corner, you can easily be spun around and shot at the sides or stern with complete impunity. But assault tank destroyers are distinguished by powerful guns that are superior to the guns of heavy tanks in terms of penetration, one-time damage and damage per minute.

A common mistake is to try to play assault tank destroyers as if they were ambush guns, that is, stand somewhere in the bushes and shoot at someone else’s light. This cannot be said that this is always a mistake; on open maps it is often necessary to do this and play the role of an ambush tank destroyer.

But in most situations it is much more useful to go with heavy tanks and play your assault tank destroyer, in fact, as an assault tank destroyer. There's no point in pushing forward too much, there are heavy tanks for that, but you should always be a little behind and deal damage from close range. The powerful guns of assault tank destroyers usually allow you to penetrate the frontal armor of heavy tanks at a higher level, take advantage of this and try to choose the most armored opponents. If you don’t break through them, then there will simply be no one to do it.

As we noted above, not all tank destroyers can be clearly classified as ambush and assault. There are, for example, cars that combine these features. Take the T28, this American tank destroyer of the eighth level has a low silhouette and strong frontal armor. It can successfully play the role of both an ambush tank destroyer and an assault one.

Video games tank destroyer

The game has a large number of unusual cars that do not fit into such a simple classification. For example, there is the first branch of British tank destroyers. At first glance, these are classic assault vehicles, but guns with low one-time damage and mediocre penetration for a tank destroyer make playing with them unusual and difficult.

World of Tanks also has turret-mounted tank destroyers. The American branch appeared a long time ago, but the second British branch was introduced into the game relatively recently. It would seem that the presence of a turret (sometimes with incomplete rotation, but still) on a tank destroyer should be a big advantage. But you have to pay for it with poor stabilization (often even very bad), so it’s not easy to play on turret tank destroyers.

Rating of the best tank destroyers

As you can see, there are a large number of different tank destroyers, so there is no single tactic for playing vehicles of this class. On some it is better to stand in the bushes and fire from a long distance, while others are intended for aggressive shooting at close range. So experiment more, if you show poor results on any tank destroyer, it means that you simply haven’t found the right tactics for it yet.

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In the World of Tanks game, each type of military equipment has its own combat tactics. Let's look at the tactics of playing on the PT. The above features of combat can be extended to tank destroyers of any level, but we will focus specifically on high-level vehicles.

For any anti-tank installation, frontal armor is the main protection against direct enemy hits and receiving significant damage. The bulk of this type of combat units of military equipment does not have a turret, as a result of which they can only shoot directly, in the direction of the gun. In this case, by letting the enemy into your stern, you risk losing the tank destroyer without being able to respond to the enemy. In such cases, the enemy most often either tries to block your ability to move and turn around its axis, preventing you from getting into a firing position. This means that to protect your combat vehicle, you need to use one simple trick that will make it easy to avoid such an unpleasant moment as being defeated by a light tank that has driven into your rear.

How to prevent a light or medium tank from destroying a tank destroyer?

The solution to this seemingly hopeless situation is simple. When playing on a PT, you only need to choose firing positions near natural or artificial fortifications. Simply put, don't drive too far from buildings or high spots in the terrain, such as steep mountains or rocks.

And here you are standing at the wall of a building on a level 10 tank destroyer. An enemy light tank VK-2801 is rushing towards you, and at this moment you are just reloading. What to do? Here's what: place the PT perpendicular to the wall of the building so that the stern is adjacent to the wall. This simple position will no longer allow a light tank to quickly drive to your rear. The second task remains - to prevent a light tank from blocking your gun from turning in its direction. To do this, you, standing in one place with your stern to the wall, turn towards the movement of the light tank. Often, having seen certain death, light tank drivers do not even risk approaching tank destroyers standing in such positions. After all, if an LT hits your sight, it will immediately be destroyed by the first shot.

If you find yourself in a situation where an enemy light tank has approached you from the side and does not allow you to turn around, you drive forward a little, and then, turning the tank destroyer back, turn the gun towards the enemy. Most often, this allows you to bring down the enemy on the tank and quickly destroy it.

Remember the main rule - when you see danger, stand with your stern close to a wall or stone, and then try to keep the enemy in sight, not giving him the opportunity to maneuver. This will dramatically increase the survivability of your tank destroyer.

How to help the team and who to shoot with a tank destroyer first?

Everything is simple here. You play a tank destroyer in World of Tanks. The main task for this type of combat vehicle is the destruction of tanks. Try not to deviate from this goal in the game. Once you find yourself in the thick of things on the front line, at a time when there are several types of enemy tanks in front of you at once, choose highly armored tanks as your target first. Give priority to shooting at heavy tanks, even if it is possible to destroy a nearby light tank or self-propelled gun with one shot. After all, you and only you on a tank destroyer can inflict maximum damage on heavy tanks. Don’t be greedy, the light tank and self-propelled guns will be finished off by your allies for you. Concentrate on heavy tanks and ensure victory for yourself and your team.

In this article, we will look at the basic rules of effective play on tank destroyers and answer the question of how to play on tank destroyers correctly.

1. The first rule of playing tank destroyers is the competent use of positions on the map. Basically, the gameplay on PT is a positional game, when you occupy convenient zones and positions and deal damage from them. You must clearly know which zones need to be occupied in the initial phase of the battle, and which positions are effective in the later stage of the game. You simply must know the maps and understand from what point and in what directions you can shoot, and how to most effectively use the terrain features. A competent PT player should be able to navigate freely on any map.

2. The next rule is to use camouflage as much as possible. Always hide behind bushes. Do not forget that the more bushes there are between you and the enemy, the less chance of being noticed by the enemy. Just like bushes, fallen trees help camouflage.

3. The peculiarity of so many maps in World of Tanks is that most of the time no collisions occur. In such moments of calm, do not hesitate to shoot blindly, without exposure. After all, if you know the standard places where enemies usually stand, then such shots can reach the target and hit the enemy tank.

4. One of the main enemies of AT is artillery, so always remember about it. After several exposures in one place, always change your position, estimate the approximate location of the artillery and try to stand so that the artillery cannot reach you.

5. Playing a tank destroyer is not just about passively standing in the bushes and shooting at someone else's intelligence data. In some situations you must help your allies attack. If you see that the team has begun to act aggressively and is beginning to push the direction, then sometimes your help may not be enough. Therefore, do not be afraid to play actively and go on the attack.

6. Some tanks are not inferior in armor to heavy tanks at their level. If your vehicle has strong armor, then do not hide behind your allies, but try to realize this strong side of your tank. In some situations, it is you who must be the first to go forward and take the enemy’s projectiles.

7. Tank destroyers are a very diverse class of equipment. There are completely different cars on display here. From fast, nimble and weakly armored tanks to heavy, slow-moving, over-armored monsters. On some self-propelled guns you can play from armor, and on some such behavior will inevitably lead to quick death. Some machines can play while standing in the bushes, while some need to constantly move around. Based on your knowledge of the strengths and weaknesses of your PT, try to build your tactics in battle.

8. One of the main disadvantages of most PTs is the lack of a turret. This means you become vulnerable from the rear and sides of the tank. Therefore, try to choose positions from which you cannot be screwed. Do not go into open spaces where there are no houses or any rocks.

9. Always choose the direction where you will fight with the support of your allies. A lonely tank is an easy target for enemy tanks.

10. One of the basic rules when playing PT is to deal a lot of damage. In the world of tanks, the tank tank is the main supplier of damage to enemy combat vehicles. It doesn’t matter how you apply it, the main thing for us is the result.